Part Number & Application List

Tips for finding the correct part:

• The Part Number is NOT PBT-GF-30-

• Please check the opposite side of the housing if you find the number 'PBT-GF-30' as this is not the model/part number but IS the abbreviation for Polybutylene Terephthalate and 30% glass fiber (the plastic used in ALL air mass meter housings; regardless of brand. A small mirror might be helpful as sometimes the original part number is located where it can't be seen without removing the unit completely.

• The best way to replace your Mass Air Flow Meter is to get the part number from the unit which is currently installed.

• If you can't find the correct part/number for your car, please get in contact via email for a free no obligation quote or visit our website where things are much simpler!

• If the application list included in this listing has your engine stated below, please double check that your engine code, horsepower, engine size and year of manufacture are the same; if you do not know specifics such as engine model, they can be found in your vehicles V5C logbook.

Note - Additional recommended repairs are to replace the air filter and clean the air filter box out thoroughly of dust, grease and grit to a shiny smooth surface. If this is not done it can invalidate your warranty as dirty air particles from your old air filter can cause serious problems to your new mass air flow meter along with a far shorter lifespan. This problem is often overlooked by many people.



General Mass Air Flow Sensor Information

Also sometimes known as:

• 'Air Mass Meter'
• 'MAF'
• 'Air Mass Sensor'
• 'Mass Air Flow Sensor'
• 'Air Flow Meter'
• 'Air Mass Meter'

• Unsteady Idle (car revving up by around 1000rpm itself then dropping back down - these however are also symptoms of a bad idle air control valve or throttle body so garage diagnostic tests are recommended)
• Reduced drivability, cutting out when the engine speed drops. e.g. approaching bends
• Loss of power, turbo lag on turbo applications
• Excessive black smoke on diesel applications
• Reduced fuel economy and lumpy running
• Can feel like you're hitting a rev limiter too early

Typically air flow sensors can go faulty every 40,000 miles, this is due them getting clogged up with dirt within the induction system. They never truly 'fail' as such, but as the sensor is a very sensitive unit, it is not recommended to use workshop appliances to repair the sensors. At the same time, using general cleaning equipment such as carburettor and throttle body cleaner for maintenance will shorten the life of the sensors. Besides, Bosch recommends that the sensors of hot-film air mass flow meter should not be removed from the housing, because during reinstallation the components cannot be fitted into it's exact original location, even the tiniest assembly error will lead to the inaccurate test data. Therefore, replacing the hot-film air mass flow sensor including the housing is only way for maintaining and repairing the mixture ratio correctly.

On most vehicles it's possible to test if your mass air flow sensor is faulty, simply by disconnecting the harness wire plug, if you then go out for a drive in your vehicle and most of the problems you were having before are gone, then this will mean that it needs replacing with a new unit. It's certainty not advisable to drive your car for long periods of time with the MAF disconnected as premature engine damage and reduced fuel economy may occur as the ecu is not receiving the correct calculations for the fuel / air mixture ratio. Replacing a faulty Air flow sensor with a genuine original unit will certainly pay for itself in the end with the increased fuel economy and all the mentioned problems above being erased. This is however, unless they're crossover symptoms that are not related to a faulty MAF.